Touring the Eastern US and Canada

Monday, September 29, 2008

Niagara Falls



I now know that the aforementioned waterfalls are like a dripping tap compared to the real thing – Niagara! Nothing prepared me for the astounding sight of Niagara Falls as we drove through the lovely town and onto appropriately named Falls View Road and saw the Falls for the first time. They are ENORMOUS!

First I saw the massively wide river rushing down, with many white water sections and then it just drops over the edge in an awesome sheet. The green and white torrent simply pours over the huge ledge and down into the crater below. Spray drifts up in clouds and creates rainbows in the afternoon sunshine. It just draws you to stare and stare, as if your mind cannot comprehend what your eyes are seeing. The Horseshoe Falls are the curved falls nearest to the Canadian shore, and then there are some huge rocks (Goat Island) separating them from the straight American Falls, which are equally jaw dropping. It is an amazing sight and justifiably one of the natural wonders of the world.

We were staying 2 blocks back from Falls View Road and although the morning sky was clear blue and sunny, as we walked towards Niagara, there was drizzle in the air. This was the spray and mist from Niagara Falls still far away. Along the banks and high above the Niagara River the area is a pleasant promenade and park. It is very uncommercialized, unlike the American side. Definitely the best views of Niagara Falls are from the Canadian side.

We bought tickets for a half hour ride on the boat “Maid of the Mist VI” which motors up the river to the foot of the falls (April to October only). Tickets were only $14.50 – a bargain compared to Starbucks coffee ($6) and ice cream ($5). We were given plastic macs to put on and went down in the elevator to the level of the river. We made a beeline for the front of the boat and stood at the bow as the blast of the horn announced we were underway. We sailed to the foot of the American falls, which was a mass of huge rocks from previous rock falls as the edge erodes about 6 feet per year. This torrent of water was 180 feet high. We then sailed towards Horseshoe falls – 170 feet high and a massive 2500 foot long lip! The river depth here is 180 feet and was quite turbulent with seagulls bobbing and diving on the waves. Suddenly rain slammed into us, and wind whirled our macs in all directions. It was like being in a sudden squall or storm, but was just the effect of the falls. Rain/spray blew up our sleeves and tricked down our necks as we faced the storm. Water poured down the staircase from the upper deck in a sheet. We bobbed around and then sailed back to calmer waters. The camera was so wet the lens would not retract, but it was worth it to experience the size and force of Niagara. Back in the sunshine we rung out our sleeves and trousers and dried off.

We learnt that 20% of all the earth’s fresh water flows over Niagara from the great lakes to Lake Erie. That is 200,000 cubic feet per second entering the Niagara River, half of which is diverted to a hydro-electricity station. The rest rushes through the Gorge at 22mph and a depth of 35 feet. It drops 52 feet in less than a mile and creates Class 6 white water rapids, which are almost unnavigable.

We walked along the boardwalk alongside the Gorge to see the rushing water and waves 8 feet high and then drove along to see where the river does a hairpin bend and creates a huge and deadly whirlpool. Many funambulists (new word!) including Blondin in 1860 did stunts over the Falls and Gorge including walking tightropes, carrying a stove and cooking an omelet, or carrying others on their back. Others have dived or gone over the Falls in barrels. The first person to survive this suicidal trick was a 61 year old woman teacher, in 1901. More recently a 7 year old boy wearing just a bathing suit and life vest was swept over and miraculously survived.

The whole Niagara experience is just mind-blowing and is deservedly one of the natural wonders of the world.

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