Around Niagara on the Lake

After dropping our luggage at the Days Inn, we drove out to meet our friends Monty and Helen. They live in a beautiful restored farmhouse, full of antiques and family treasures. The gardens were a delight of perennial color, cleomes, sweet peas, trumpet vines, hibiscus and the strangely named four-o’clocks. Roger was most envious of the barn – full of boys toys such as a snow blower, John Deere sit on mower (which Roger later got to test-drive!), a real horse-pulled sledge, and some ATV’s (Quads). Canadians know how to have fun. They all seem to ski, play tennis, cycle, swim, fish, hunt, snowboard, play ice hockey, skate, ski, go snow-mobiling, ride ATV’s, go kayaking, hiking etc. The opportunities are there to enjoy for most families and made us quite envious!

We went along to a United Church service, which was followed by a “pulled pork lunch” – hot roast pork on bread rolls with masses of salads and desserts. This was the first time I had ever said “Grace” as part of the service, to avoid delays in getting to the real matter in hand – Food! Roger thought this was a great improvement on the usual wine and wafer!

Later we toured the local vineyards, meeting the vintners who Monty knew, viewing a wine-making plant, seeing the grapes hanging in huge bunches on the trained vines, and learning about the whole wine business. There were rose bushes at the end of each row of grapes, and these were like the canary in the coal mine. They warned of poor growing conditions or insect invasion on the vines. The best bit was of course wine tasting. We tasted the sweet ice wine for the first time – made from grapes picked from the vine after several nights below freezing, and crushed while still frozen. It was pretty expensive stuff at $75 for ½ a bottle. Even ordinary wine in Canada is over $12 a bottle due to taxes. Bicycle wine tours around the vineyards are popular here, which we thought was a fateful combination, as the cyclists sampled and got wobblier and slower! Apparently there was a back-up truck for the incapacitated, and to carry the necessary purchases of wine home.

Niagara-on-the-Lake was so pretty, with lovely old buildings which are now classy shops, hotels and B&B’s. The beds of flowers and hanging baskets were magnificent at every turn. We saw all the apple, pear and peach tree orchards, which were a major industry in the area. We walked along the pier at Lake Ontario and saw fishermen catching perch. As the sun set we rode on a restored carousel of glossy horses. It had been donated to the town with the proviso that rides remained at 5 cents so everyone could enjoy it – so we did. We rose and fell to the music of the barrel organ; it was so nostalgic and such fun.

Another day we visited the Botanical gardens and admired the floral clock. We walked along the Glen, which entailed descending 8 flights of open metal stairs down the cliff, then scrambling along stony paths alongside the Gorge beside the rushing Niagara River. We saw the jet boats full of riders all strapped in and riding the white water rapids. They got drenched as the waves hit the boat and splashed right over the top. Another first for us was going to an ice-hockey match, which Monty was playing in. It was very fast and exciting, with team members tagging each other to take a rest from playing.

It really was a beautiful and interesting area with a lovely autumn climate, and there seemed to be so much going on in each community. There is so much space here compared with England. I envy the lovely gardens that flourish here, and the antiques that abound everywhere.

Niagara Falls

I now know that the aforementioned waterfalls are like a dripping tap compared to the real thing – Niagara! Nothing prepared me for the astounding sight of Niagara Falls as we drove through the lovely town and onto appropriately named Falls View Road and saw the Falls for the first time. They are ENORMOUS!

First I saw the massively wide river rushing down, with many white water sections and then it just drops over the edge in an awesome sheet. The green and white torrent simply pours over the huge ledge and down into the crater below. Spray drifts up in clouds and creates rainbows in the afternoon sunshine. It just draws you to stare and stare, as if your mind cannot comprehend what your eyes are seeing. The Horseshoe Falls are the curved falls nearest to the Canadian shore, and then there are some huge rocks (Goat Island) separating them from the straight American Falls, which are equally jaw dropping. It is an amazing sight and justifiably one of the natural wonders of the world.

We were staying 2 blocks back from Falls View Road and although the morning sky was clear blue and sunny, as we walked towards Niagara, there was drizzle in the air. This was the spray and mist from Niagara Falls still far away. Along the banks and high above the Niagara River the area is a pleasant promenade and park. It is very uncommercialized, unlike the American side. Definitely the best views of Niagara Falls are from the Canadian side.

We bought tickets for a half hour ride on the boat “Maid of the Mist VI” which motors up the river to the foot of the falls (April to October only). Tickets were only $14.50 – a bargain compared to Starbucks coffee ($6) and ice cream ($5). We were given plastic macs to put on and went down in the elevator to the level of the river. We made a beeline for the front of the boat and stood at the bow as the blast of the horn announced we were underway. We sailed to the foot of the American falls, which was a mass of huge rocks from previous rock falls as the edge erodes about 6 feet per year. This torrent of water was 180 feet high. We then sailed towards Horseshoe falls – 170 feet high and a massive 2500 foot long lip! The river depth here is 180 feet and was quite turbulent with seagulls bobbing and diving on the waves. Suddenly rain slammed into us, and wind whirled our macs in all directions. It was like being in a sudden squall or storm, but was just the effect of the falls. Rain/spray blew up our sleeves and tricked down our necks as we faced the storm. Water poured down the staircase from the upper deck in a sheet. We bobbed around and then sailed back to calmer waters. The camera was so wet the lens would not retract, but it was worth it to experience the size and force of Niagara. Back in the sunshine we rung out our sleeves and trousers and dried off.

We learnt that 20% of all the earth’s fresh water flows over Niagara from the great lakes to Lake Erie. That is 200,000 cubic feet per second entering the Niagara River, half of which is diverted to a hydro-electricity station. The rest rushes through the Gorge at 22mph and a depth of 35 feet. It drops 52 feet in less than a mile and creates Class 6 white water rapids, which are almost unnavigable.

We walked along the boardwalk alongside the Gorge to see the rushing water and waves 8 feet high and then drove along to see where the river does a hairpin bend and creates a huge and deadly whirlpool. Many funambulists (new word!) including Blondin in 1860 did stunts over the Falls and Gorge including walking tightropes, carrying a stove and cooking an omelet, or carrying others on their back. Others have dived or gone over the Falls in barrels. The first person to survive this suicidal trick was a 61 year old woman teacher, in 1901. More recently a 7 year old boy wearing just a bathing suit and life vest was swept over and miraculously survived.

The whole Niagara experience is just mind-blowing and is deservedly one of the natural wonders of the world.