Touring the Eastern US and Canada

Monday, September 15, 2008

Erie to Collingwood, Canada


289 miles,10 ¼ hours (mostly shopping!)

We did not get to see much of Lake Erie as it was the same dull misty grey color as the sky, but we did enjoy the banks of wild flowers along the roadside and the grapevines in the fields. I had no idea grapes were grown so far north, but apparently they are mainly used for jellies and jams rather than wine.

Today’s journey follows the Seaway Trail along Lake Erie. Despite taking the coastal road along the vast Lake we did not see much because of the houses and businesses along the water’s edge, but we did see a number of the historic lighthouses along the way. We noticed the fire hydrants here have fluorescent extension markers about 4 feet high. Is this so they can be spotted in the deep snow? All the houses still have front porches with rocking chairs, tables, planters and even barbecues on them. We passed fruit orchards and “sugar shacks” selling maple syrup at the roadside, as well as apples and plums.

Entering the suburbs of Buffalo was like hitting Newcastle-upon-Tyne, England at its most depressed. There were miles of derelict warehouses and abandoned engineering sites. This was in marked contrast to the amazing architecture in downtown Buffalo. There the ornate buildings were worthy of New York City, rather than this border town.

Over the Peace Bridge the Canadian border was easy, with no waiting, and we took our first look from the Queen Elizabeth Way at Canada. The big open highway was quiet as we headed for Toronto. We loaded up with maps and info at the Visitor center. Good news, the Niagara Wine festival starts next weekend, just as we arrive there!

As we reached Lake Ontario and drove into Toronto for gas and food, the rain started again and the traffic was terrible. The clouds were so low they covered the tops of the high-rises. Glad to get our food supplies and get out, we relaxed again beyond Brampton. The road narrowed and passed through dairy farms and horse country. A delightful country store caught our eye, especially the sign for homemade pies and we hurried inside. Amongst the candles and fudge was a great choice of pies. We chose a real game pie. Forget the English WI recipes with pheasant and pigeon, these pies were full of elk, wild boar, venison and onions in gravy. They weighed 3 pounds, and take 2 hours to cook! For pudding we chose “Bumbleberry Pie”. We asked the owner what bumbleberries were as we had never heard of them. Were they locally grown? She laughed and then explained that “bumbleberry” was the name for any mixed fruit pie. These had raspberries, blueberries, apple and rhubarb, and they were absolutely delicious.

We traveled on again past “gingerbread” farmhouses with carved eaves and patterned brickwork, through forests of fir trees and passed high wooden barns which dwarfed the houses. What do they put in them to necessitate such height? Giraffes?!!! Finally we arrived at the shores of Lake Huron and Collingwood, our home for the next week.

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