Huntington to Erie

Huntington to Erie
425 miles, 9 hours

The forecast for the day was terrible; heavy rain coming in, so we decided to make an early start and hopefully stay ahead of the rain clouds. It was still a warm 74F so we still had the top down. We crossed the huge Ohio River and began the Ohio River Byway. As the old road runs along the top of the levee, we had great views almost all day of the mighty river, its many iron bridges, and the small communities along its bank. The first stop was in Gallipolis, a town created by French immigrants escaping the French revolution. These immigrants were well-educated doctors and lawyers, so consequently the town they created had fine French influence in the architecture and way of life. The beautiful park overlooking the Ohio River has swings along the banks for couples to sit on while enjoying the view; there was a picturesque white bandstand and ornate buildings around the square.

So few people pass along this route that in the countryside we found everyone stopped their chores in the gardens and fields, and waved to us, and we waved back. We even got a wave from a tugboat master as his vessel pushed 20 barges along filled with coal. They were destined for one of the power plants that we came across further North. The small fields were full of crops including tomatoes, sweet corn and other unknown vegetables, and we were thoroughly enjoying the twisting lanes when we came to a full stop. The road was closed – no warning – so we had to detour back into mainstream life again.

At Marietta we joined the Covered bridge Scenic byway through Wayne National Forest. This byway had two treasures. Along the valley are some of the nation’s oldest oil wells, which still pump a few barrels a month. Almost every garden had a tank and close by an ancient pump. We got the whiff of oil in places, and occasionally heard the clanking of a pump, but it was so out of place in this rural backwater.

This route also passes some of the oldest covered bridges, which we had never seen before. As the winter weather is so severe, the bridges were covered with barn-like structures to reduce the ice. Some of them were over 180 feet long. However we read they had other purposes too. They were popular stopping places for buggies with courting couples, who favored the dark tunnels and so became known as kissing bridges. They were also known as wishing bridges, as travelers closed their eyes and wished in the darkness. One sad story told of a farmer who loaded his wagon to go to market. When he came to one of the bridges he peered into the darkness and was convinced that the small light at the far end was too small an opening to get his cart through, so he turned around and went home again!

Back on the Ohio River Byway things are getting more industrialized as we near Pittsburg. There are many power plants and industry along the river, their tall chimneys pothering out huge clouds of steam and smoke. No wonder it is raining here. Remind me never to bathe in the Ohio River downstream of these polluters, no matter how nice it looks.

The rain clouds finally caught up with us and we drove into Pennsylvania in a cloud of spray from the road. After a long, long drive we reached the first of the Great Lakes, Lake Erie and sank into the lovely room at La Quinta. This motel was more like a hotel with charleys, elevators, a fitness room and luxurious furnishings. Just what we needed after covering so many miles in the last two days.